Knowledge Base > Jewellery Education > Setting Types

Setting Types
Setting Types

Setting Types


Setting type refers to the metal base that holds a stone in place. Each setting style is created to enhance both the beauty of the stones and the appearance of a jewellery piece. The descriptions below will help you select the perfect setting type for your needs.

An engagement ring should be a reflection of the person wearing it. Here are a few tips to help begin: A woman with simpler, more streamlined taste may prefer a beautifully-made solitaire setting with one fantastic diamond. For women who like a lot of sparkle, an intricate pave setting with rows of diamonds might be preferable. A vintage setting with delicate engraving might appeal to a woman who has a penchant for the classics. Beautiful baguette side stones give a more contemporary feel to a ring, and gemstone settings are great for a woman who loves color. Tension settings will likely appeal to a more modern woman.

Consider the woman, and the right style will become clear. Remember that the wedding band that will follow will need to match the engagement ring in terms of style and metal. The width of the ring is also a factor, since it will soon have a wedding ring next to it. A woman with small hands will want a narrower band on her rings, while a woman with larger hands might prefer a wider band.

Prong


The prong setting is one of the most popular setting types. The setting has small metal prongs that are bent over the girdle of the gemstone or diamond. Many prefer this setting type for their engagement ring, stud earrings or tennis bracelet, as it allows for the greatest exposure of the diamond and minimizes the appearance of the metal. This highlights the diamonds and will also allow more light to pass through, which affects the brilliance of the jewellery.


Prong Setting

Prong Setting.



Channel


A channel setting refers to a type of stone setting often used in mounting a number of small stones of uniform size in a row. Instead an individual set of prongs holding each stone, the stones are fitted into a channel and held into place on each side by a continuous strip of metal. This is a popular setting type for diamond rings and tennis bracelets.


Channel Setting

Channel Setting.



Bezel


A bezel setting is used when a diamond is completely surrounded by metal. Primarily known for its clean appearance and sturdiness, this setting style encases the outer edge of the diamond in a fine frame of metal. When set in platinum or white gold, it can make the diamonds appear larger. The bezel setting is often used with round shaped diamonds, but also works well with other diamond shapes.


Bezel Setting

Bezel Setting.



Half-Bezel


A semi-bezel setting, or half-bezel setting, is when the diamond is only partially surrounded by the metal setting. This setting type is popular with diamond bands and tennis bracelets.


Half-Bezel Setting

Half-Bezel Setting.



Pave


The pave setting allows light to reflect off the many facets of a diamond. It uses numerous small diamonds set with tiny prongs to create a continuous surface of radiance and shimmer. This setting type is preferred for engagement rings and earrings.


Pave Setting

Pave Setting.



Common Shared Prong


A common shared prong setting is a variation of the traditional prong setting in which the prongs are wrapped around the crown of more than one stone. This type of setting minimizes the appearance and presence of metal and allows additional light to pass through a diamond or gemstone.


Common Shared Prong Setting

Common Shared Prong Setting.



Tension Setting


A tension setting refers to a diamond ring setting where the diamond is held in place by pressure rather than with prongs. The gold or platinum setting is actually spring-loaded to exert pressure onto the diamond, and tiny etchings or grooves are added to the gold or platinum in order to create a shelf structure for the diamond's edges to rest. The diamond appears to 'float' or be suspended in the air with nothing holding it in place. It is a secure setting type for a diamond engagement ring or wedding ring.


Tension Setting

Tension Setting.



Bright - Cut


A bright-cut is a metal engraving technique which involves chiseling the metal with a polished tool. The result is a highly reflective surface.


Bright - Cut Setting

Bright - Cut Setting.



Bridge Accent


A bridge accent is a design element located beneath the center stone than can be seen when looking at the ring in the through-finger view.

Bridge Accent Setting

Bridge Accent Setting.



Illusion


An illusion is a setting technique patented by Van Cleef & Arpels in 1933. A diamond is placed in a collet of reflective, highly polished metal so that it appears to be part of the gemstone. This enhances the perceived size of the diamond.


Illusion Setting

Illusion Setting.



Gypsy/Flush


A gypsy/flush is a setting technique in which the gemstone is embedded within the band. The metal from the band is used to secure the gemstone, leaving only the top of the gem visible.


Gypsy/Flush Setting

Gypsy/Flush Setting.



Fishtail


A fishtail is a beautiful setting technique consisting of four prominent triangular corners cut from the existing shank that hold the gemstone in place. When viewed from the finger-view it looks like the tail of a fish.


Fishtail Setting

Fishtail Setting.



Scallop


A scallop is a gemstone-setting technique in which the prongs are created from the shank. A fishtail is one example of a scalloped setting.


Scallop Setting

Scallop Setting.



Trellis


A trellis is a structure of open latticework. It is especially used as a gallery support for gemstones.


Trellis Setting

Trellis Setting.



Bar


A bar is a setting technique in which the gemstone is secured between two parallel bars while the sides of the gem remain open.


Bar Setting

Bar Setting.



Twist


Twist settings are becoming more and more popular among couples looking to buy an engagement ring. In this setting, the metal band is shaped and turned to create a crisscrossed effect. The result is a unique look that is as complex as it is delicate.


Twist Setting

Twist Setting.



More On Pave Engagement Ring Settings


Pave (pronounced pa-vey) is a type of stone setting that describes many small stones set closely together in a piece of jewellery. Pave setting is very common in engagement rings and is a great way to add extra sparkle to a piece while staying in budget. Let's take a look at everything you need to know when looking for a pave ring to make a smart purchase.

What Is A Pave Setting?


The word pave has French origins and means "paved", as the surface of a piece with this setting looks like it has been paved with stones. In modern pave settings, the diamonds that make up the pave are separated and held in place by little metal beads. These beads are either shaped from the existing metal in the setting or are soldered on. Because these beads are so tiny and surrounded by many small diamonds, they seem to disappear into the background, resulting in what looks like a continuous surface of shine.

Rings often feature pave along the shank, in a halo, or even on the prongs in which the centerstone is set. Wedding bands also commonly have pave set diamonds.

Rings with pave along the shank generally only feature stones halfway around the band to allow for adjustment of ring size. If pave set diamonds span all the way around the band, most of the ring will have to be dismantled to resize it, what can cause major issues in the future.


Pave Rings

Pave Rings

Pave Rings.



CTW And Pave


CTW, or total carat weight, refers to the sum total weight of all diamonds set in a jewellery item. To calculate the total carat weight, simply add together the carat weight of all the diamonds in that given piece. When it comes to pave set rings, the CTW may refer to the total carat weight of the entire ring including the centerstone or just the total carat weight of the pave set stones, depending on the context.

Although pave diamonds may seem very small, when there are many set together, their CTW can add up. Keep in mind that pave ring prices will go up as their CTW increases. Setting pave diamonds is quite labor intensive, but even with the added cost of this work, pave tends to cost less than larger sidestones and provides a particular shine that larger stones don't quite deliver.

Pave Setting Vs. Micro Pave Setting


The main difference between micro pave and pave is that the stones used in micro pave are smaller and are set using a different technique. Unlike regular pave, where stone sizes can vary in order to fill the space, micro pave uses stones of a uniform size that are offset from row to row, creating a honeycomb-like pattern.

Diamonds used for a standard pave setting must be 0.01 to 0.02 carat - anything smaller than that is considered micro - pave.


Micro Pave
Pave
Pave setting vs. Micro Pave Setting

Pave setting vs. Micro Pave Setting.



Pave Setting Pros And Cons


Pros

• Pave set diamonds give tons of sparkle to a ring and create a true "wow" factor.

• When used in a halo, pave set diamonds can create the appearance of a larger centerstone.

• As opposed to larger sidestones, pave set diamonds are less costly and provide just as much shine.

Cons

• Because pave set diamonds are so small, they tend to fall out with rough use.

• CTW of pave rings may be misleading, as it includes many tiny stones.

Purchasing Pave Rings


So now that you know a bit more about pave, let's look at some tips you need to know before buying:

• Pay attention to the distribution of the pave diamonds. Many times, jewellers will add pave diamonds to obscure sections of a ring in order to increase the price of the ring. Pave set diamonds far down the band that are hidden by fingers, for example, may not be worth paying extra for.

• As the diamonds used in pave are quite small, it is difficult to notice any imperfections with the naked eye. Examine the pave under a microscope to make sure that none of the diamonds are chipped or damaged in any way.

• Similarly, check the surface of the pave diamonds to make sure that they are smooth and even.

The Bottom Line


Pave, a type of stone setting that describes many small stones set closely together, is a very common element in engagement rings that offers major sparkle. Originating from the French word for "paved", pave setting is often found on the shank or halo of a ring. Despite their beauty, pave diamonds do have a tendency to fall out with wear and tear. Make sure to examine your pave ring closely for quality of work before purchasing.